28.6.12

In dreams

When I was growing up we use to take these family trips exclusively to Florida. We would pack up our 1980 something Plymouth Voyager or maybe it was a Dodge Caravan. Either way, it had fakewood paneling pealing off from the edges and this kind of like roasted maroon interior with the tactile sensation of worn down velvet. No doubt towards the end of its life the ceiling had collapsed. An Attaway trademark. But not for these journeys. These trips happened its prime. We would stuff the back of the car full of each individual family member's bags with various umbrellas, folded towels and loose sunscreen bottles stuffed in between the cracks so as to achieve the highest atomic packing possible. For easy access of walkmans/tapes or books or Gameboys, depending on which kiddo, our L.L. Bean® (forest green, in my case) backpacks were kept under the seats. And, of course, a cooler up front containing various sandwiches, cheese blocks, whole fruits, breakfast meats (country ham, bacon and ground sausage, all cooked together in an iron skillet, giving all three this kind of magical flavor, one not that does not normally exist on breakfast plates, but left textures as the only real way to distinguish one from the other) and ice cold Fresca. 

We would leave at ongodly hours. 4 a.m. At least we would plan on it. The rush of the final round before departures would be stressful and never made it easy, better said damn near impossible, for me to sleep once the tires left their pea gravel parking spot. It always seemed my siblings conked out as I squirmed or watched the trees in the dark as we crossed from Georgia into Alabama without even leaving the Mountain. Or maybe we took a right at what looked like a hand-painted billboard from the 50's for The Mountain Star*. Personally, that road never seemed safe. Probably had something to do with the hard right turns, one after the other, with like a 40 degree slope that only mellowed out to the flat valley at the end. Once you are already in Wildwood. (What a name). I would lay down on the ground thinking it might help for me to spread out, relax, but the rough fibers of the floor would irritate my delicate† face. That and the proximity to the tires was disconcerting. 

Sometime just before sunrise up I'd come clean: I had been awake the whole time. I would move to the passenger seat at a quick stop and start interacting with the driver, always at this stage my father. He was listening to country music, not because he was a fan of the style, but because it always told a story. And so I'd listen and sure enough some man would be upset about his woman's lying cheating ways so he'd a'been a drinking and fighting and driving around in a truck yelling at people to be more kindly around the holidays and to not X the Christ out of Christmas. But country music, we all knew, was not what we would listen to for the majority of the trip. A couple hours in, we would stop at a Cracker Barrel (Restaurant and Old Country Store), only out populated on our journey by Waffle Houses, to buy diabetic-friendly multicolored candy buttons and, the dreaded - maybe not dreaded but unavoidable, inescapable - book on tape. Always b-rate, semi-professionally recorded scandal/mystery types written by the actual John Grisham or some John Grisham knock-off. The stories were not so bad if you could force yourself to pay it mind, but let me tell you something about narrators for books on tape: they are male. Always. And their interpretations of the female characters, especially during anything that related to sexuality. I am not sure if it was offensive or just disturbing.

Eventually the other cubs would wake up somewhere near the Florida line and we would pile out to look at miniature flipflop keychains that somehow included a bottle opener, inappropriate tea shirts (I'm too sexy for my diaper) and a combination of shark and gator teeth as we savored our miniature paper cup samples of fresh squeezed orange juice.

But now the gang was awake. Six living, breathing creatures growing anxious from the mixture of sugar and aspertine in the blood and trying to gain control in a space a little larger than the size of (one of) Donald Trump's beds. The volume would rapidly increase and then decrease. A distraction. Culprit: father. Reason: Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder§.

Tensions rose a degree more. Others tried to come in for the radio. One of the boys suggested some Snoop. It worked at first but I think the parental unit, while they enjoyed "getting funky on the mic like an old batch of collard greens" was not outwardly pleased by "with my nuts on your tonsils."

A power struggle ensued. Insults about ones respective musical taste began to surface. "If David Bowie is gay then why is he married to such a hot model, huh? Explain me that one." 

Just when it seemed all hope was lost, that the radio was bound to get turned off as an act of defiance against demon spawn, someone, the younger older brother (because that makes sense) passed a plastic, white object with black type he rescued from the marsupial pouch on the back on the passenger seat.

Tensions dropped 3 degrees with tape insertion, an almost Pavlovian response. The tape rewinds and there is static silence before:

                           

/////f o o t n o t e s//////

* A small cafe on the back of the Lookout Mountain. Definitely the Georgia side. Just had to keep on Lula Lake Road. The kind of place that you always plan on going to though you never get the chance because it has funny hours that do not coincide with your passing. It is probably the kind of place that is only open for lunch. I bet they have great pie.
† Seriously. My sister and I both use to suffer in the summertime. We would hang country-club poolside all day and you could literally watch the white blotches emerge on our foreheads, and in one extreme case strips of bacon-like flesh under the eyes. 
‡ Accompanied by other classic country songs like "Looking out the window through the pain" and "I got tears in my ears from lying on my back and crying about you girl."
§ More commonly known as ADHD, identified twice as much in men than women, though probably better to say boys than girls because it is the kind of thing they start medicating you for when you are like 7. In my father's case, his diagnosis came from an elementary school teacher: "Your son suffers from having ants in his pants."

17.6.12

Four questions

A l y s o n :
The sea was angry that day; we did not know what lewn beneath. I will preface this by saying I could not read in high-school. Even with high adrenaline producing drugs. After three 20 mg pills I felt electric. I must have been about 16. I got my driver's license on them, and I was wearing a turtleneck so it could not have been May. The play was, what, Fall 2003? Yeah. '03 for sure. I had my father's car and I was trying to ash my cigarette out of the window and ended up swerving big time and almost drove off the side of the mountain. The passenger never trusted me again.

E m o r y :
The sea was angry that day, my friends. I was in my friend's backyard and we found a tall boy 24 oz Bud Light®. We split it in the woods and hated it or at least I hated it, so I gave my half to Amanda, who got pregnant pretty young and now, you know, I feel kind of bad. Like maybe me encouraging her to drink that other half of the tall boy, my half, that was what pushed her over the edge at too young of an age. How old were we? 14. 15 perhaps. No, wait that was for cigarettes. We were 12.

S c o t t :
No, that is boring. The "was angry that day" shit. The first day of my homeschooling I was angry. I must have been 11. We had all the books picked out for the year, a video for math class, that kind of stuff. But on Tuesdays I would go to the church and it was like a real class with other kids. At least one other day of the week we went to the library to hangout with the other homeschoolers. I was always so sure that I was way cooler, what, with my friends in public school. They didn't abandon me just because I stopped going to school with them. I would ride my bike at 3 pm to go wait for them to get out of class.

I mean, what do you want me to say? I finished my history class in like 2 weeks. Just had to read the book. And I tested off the charts for everything except math. I always cheated in math. Remember that part of the book that had the answers given? I just copied them and showed no work. God, I was so far behind in math when I went back to school in the 8th grade. So far behind. What do I do for a living? I am an accountant.

M a r y :
The sea was angry that day. We each had different color socks and hats. I was purple, Andrea hot pink and Woogie was yellow. The rest of the costume was standardized: white shirts and cutoff-acid-washed-jean-shorts. It was to be the performance of our lives. We had practiced for weeks at Woogie's. She lived just by the school. All you had to do was walk from the back of the playground, near where that old metal slide used to be. Maybe you were to young to remember. It seemed to climb past the tree line so you could see straight clear to Covenant from its peak. I loved that slide even though over its lifetime it must have broken many bones and warranted thousands of tetnus shots, which is probably why they replaced it with a one-story plastic hut pretending to be a log cabin. Anyway, near that was, maybe still is, a dirt path in the woods, though now that I think of it, it was not as much woods as shrubbery. Details. So you exited this path that seemed super hidden to my little girl mind and, boom, you were in front of her mother's house. I didn't know where her father lived. We never met him. Heather watched us practice and complimented our dance moves. We trusted Heather. She was redneck pretty, which meant slutty. Even at the age of 10 she oozed sex. I still know all of the dance moves. 

29.5.12

Time lapse

January. February. March. April. Wait a minute, May? Really? Where? Could this all be because of Infinite Jest or is something else going on here? It was not for lack of material. I mean, did you see the Televisa-esk production, the one starring the ex-Playmate, and which pretended to be this country's Presidential debates? Bof. I won't even start. My blood pressure.

But I still have nothing to say. Or maybe I have the strength yet.

This is the longest period between entries since I began this experiment in August of 2008. At least I think so. So what happened? One might guess that I fell out of love with the city, that I am no longer curious and or inthralled by its idiosyncrasies, that I am bored, that I was killed by a narco shootout, which came to a tragic end in front of that bougie organic store in Condesa, the all-natural-living-lactobacteria-guaranteed-yogurt-tub splattering on the sidewalk as I freed my hand to grab what felt like a bee string but, you know, expecting to see nothing more than my hand upon further inspection, wait, blood? so I looked twice out of disbelief because I only checked in the first place as a formality, like when one stands up too quickly and bumps one's head on something sharp having miscalculated one's force + the objects distance but one's hand always comes back from the point of impact clean so I was probably pretty surprised by the color and the blossom on my shirt, that the story is already being adapted for the screen with (true) rumors that Michael Bay is bidding for the production and hopes for it to be out before Christmas 2013, that at Jose's suggestion I became an international prostitute and my pimp allows me a weekly 10 minutes (maximum) of interweb access, which I use to tell my parents that I joined a traveling circus as a trapeze artist, a long-held but dormant passion unmasked by a fascination with the pointed, pink and white striped tents that lay backdrop for the sequined elephants reflecting the morning light that I had passed on my way to work until the sparkles induced an insanity that beckoned me into the show.
                              

But all of those theories are lamentably wrong. I guess I became too comfortable here. Too confident that I had it all figured out. Opted to do little else with my little free time other than be with what seemed like perfect-fit-friends in this adult playground. Kind of lost myself in between the glamor and the ugliness of social scenes in a sprawling metropolis. Equal and opposite reactions in the world.

Time for Round 2 (more like Round 20). But who is really counting.

2.1.12

Musicophiliadosmilonce

What I listened to (in no particular order) in the year of our lord, 2011:



Cass McCombs - County Line
Grimes - Vanessa
John Maus - Believer
Stephen Malkmus and The Jicks - Senator
Sean Nicholas Savage - Someones Got a Secret
Widowspeak - Harsh Realm
Mateo De La Luna En Compañía Terrestrial - Absorbo Todos Los Tes De Todas Las Tardes
Smith Westerns - Still New
Pedro Piedra - Vacaciones En El Más Allá
Destroyer - Kaputt
Helado Negro - Regresa
Stephin Merritt - Rats in the Garbage of the Western World
Toro Y Moi - Still Sound
Juan Cirerol - Toque y Rol
Girls - Honey Bunny
M83 - Midnight City
María y José - Granada
Unknown Mortal Orchestra - How Can U Luv Me
Gillian Welch - Tennessee
James Blake - The Wilhelm Scream
Real Estate - It's Real
tUnE-yArDs - Gangsta
St. Vincent - Cruel
Jens Lekman - An Argument With Myself
Atlas Sound - Te Amo
Wilco - Born Alone
Fleet Foxes - The Shrine / An Argument
Kurt Vile - Jesus Fever
Davila 666 - Hanging On The Telephone
Summer Camp - Better Off Without You
Adrianigual - Arde Santiago
Bill Callahan - Riding For The Feeling
Kate Bush - Misty
Youth Lagoon - 17
Lido Pimienta - Luces
DeVotchKa - All The Sand In All The Sea
Pure X - Easy
Chiquita y Chatarra - Oh Cherry Cherry
Papercuts - Do What You Will
Afrodita - Flores Para Ti
AEIOU - King Luidwig II
The Antlers - French Exit
Daniel Maloso - No Doy Nada
Architecture In Helsinki - Contact High
Jessy Bulbo - La Cruda Moral
Junior Boys - Banana Ripple
Starfucker - Julius
The Features - Another One
Bam Bam - Ragatron
Is Tropical - South Pacific
The Black Keys - Dearest
Azari & III - Manic
Still Corners - Into The Trees
Astro - Ciervos
PJ Harvey - The Words That Maketh Murder
Mentira Mentira - My LSD
How To Dress Well - Ready For The World
White Fence - Sticky Fruitman Has Faith
EMA - Milkman
Alberto Acinas - A La Tierra
The Shoes - Investigator
Mamacita - No Eres Tú
Panda Bear - Afterburner
White Fence - Get That Heart
Beirut - Santa Fe
Cut Copy - Need You Now
TOPS - Turn Your Love Around
Marley Muerto - Señor Gobierno
Metronomy - The Bay
Danielson - Complimentary Dismemberment Insurance
Neon Walrus - Papiroflexia
Radiohead - Lotus Flower
Sonora - La Selva
Ólöf Arnalds - With Tomorrow / I'm On Fire
Keren Ann - My Name Is Trouble

10.11.11

"It"

Mexico City is strange. Sometimes I wonder if such odd things happen in all big cities or across small towns named for european capitals, conveniently pronounced according to local accents with complete disregard for the word's linguistic origins, and that counts double if it is french.

What I am trying to say is the last few months have been one fantastically bizarre event (where free liquor is never conspicuously absent) after the next; one coincidence too many; one degree of separation too close such that the indie film your friend made half-a-decade-ago features your boss's daughter, who you have always been told you would quite like, wearing a fedora in a dark car-seat, as well as the only mother in Texcoco to ever make you dinner, which you ate even though you had just come from a restaurant, as you listened to her rules for cutting avocados while embarrassing her son in a surprisingly similar fashion to that of the film; one too many baptisms with Yacht at a car release party in a warehouse where no one else danced and no one seemed to realize the band on stage played not two months prior to a sold-out crowd; just too much for me to not stop and think what the hell is happening? and I mean that in the best possible way.

So what the hell is happening here? Maybe I partially know. I will, at least, pretend to partially know. This city is huge but she is not a new megalopolis. In 1975, according to National Geographic, there were just three of them - New York, Tokyo, and Darling Mexico City. She has, thus, had time to develop and embrace her established territory while feeding an insatiable appetite with satellites. Today, she sits somewhere around the world's 3rd largest city (depending on how you measure) and purportedly holds the title of the 8th richest city in the world. Now, no city gets that big or that rich by being egalitarian. So I posit that the craziness I have and continue to witness is, in part, related to the extremes of wealth distribution.



On the one hand, you have the nearly impenetrable cliques of the upper class, whose structure survives in part via nepotism but also through the free will of emerging generations and their propensity to socialize with others of similar upbringing and status until they partner off and perhaps spawn more bourgeoisie babies. I should note that this is neither a judgment nor a criticism. It is simply an observation and in all likelihood the same observation I would make in many cities and countries if given the chance to immerse myself as I have in Mexico. But how do these people affect me and the beautiful chaos? They throw parties because they have the money and connections and friends and spaces. And they all know each other by a degree of separation so the coincidences grow and ripen the deeper you dig into the crowd.

On the other hand, you also have the have-nots. People who moved from other states or pueblos or who simply were born into a less glamorous class within the boundaries of the Federal District. The general periphery, physically and monetarily. These people have a much harder time getting ahead in a city where who-you-know dictates how far you can rise and what doors will open when you show up most likely uninvited. This is harder to define because it can range from the wanna-be fresas to the guy selling self-help books on the metro. Regardless of which flavor, there is a desperation sometimes associated with working hard and getting no returns and having little hope of pulling yourself up by your bootstraps to make a better life, the national ethos inculcated in Americans as not only possible but a right. The so called "American Dream." So for those who do not leave Mexico to chase the same dream my Granpapi stalked through hitchhiking, train hopping and urban scavenging, there is a chance they may feel anything from a pinch to a gash of hopelessness. This hopelessness can, in turn, breed anarchy, leading to some pretty fucked up events, from unprovoked violence on dark avenues to incredible squatter parties in abandoned buildings overlooking highways that would daunt even Philip K. Dick.

The real truth of the matter is that I am, at best, hypothesizing and if so, guess that someone else has captured similar ideas before but probably with more eloquence and definitely with more support. At worst, I am making crude generalizations. But neither is of consequence because the point is that the city has the "it factor" and one only describes someone or something in such a way because "it" is inherently inexplicable, unquantifiable, inimitable.

So whatever the hell "it" is, keep on coming.

29.8.11

Sharpened pencil

I sharpened my University of Washington School of Forest Resources, Creating Futures Since 1907, made from recycled newspaper! pencil. I left it all this time, kept the object as untouched and pristine as the day I removed it from the manila envelope that brought my acceptance letter, so crisply formal, now over a year long past. It sat on my desk, right underneath the computer screen, one of three, as a reminder of things to come.

It was there for grant proposal discussions with my advisor during my lunchtime, surreptitiously sneaking salty bites, when I read daily REDD newsletters about injustices in Indonesia, when I wrote my mentor for checkups, when I made ties to likeminded academics with similar research in Mexico, when I found exciting grants, when I invented funding possibilities, when I talked to friends about housing and rain, when I calculated my debt if the money didn't come, when my advisor told me the money might not come, that the economy is not smiling but that the research is desperately needed, when I remembered Atlantan porches and reading Davis' description of Mexico City's slums, not realizing then that I would soon traverse Neza twice-a-day, when I thought I wanted to be an academic, why I thought I wanted to be an academic, when I thought about the academics I knew and how the work keeps coming and how this deadline cannot wait so let's put it off but projects end to be replaced by an equally ephemeral deadline that defines the passing of time better than chess games on a wooden table chronically covered with petals from the week's flowers, mostly white or yellow, bought outside of a cemetery on the way home from work.



And when I realized that I love videos in every capacity. Even bad ones. Especially bad ones. But haven't you been working with videos, Mary? but that was different work, you see. Explaining the science is great and all but in comparison to the farmer using a more sustainable system, to see it working and to watch his blue eyes from underneath a sombrero say that he worries for his grandchildren because conventional agriculture is a scary thing to imagine as the dominant paradigm 50 years from today. No comparison. They are inherently different stories and processes in pre-/post-production & production.

So I thought again about why I wanted to be an academic. It was expected of me. Such promise.

Yet things have come and gone and I am here and not in Seattle and it is not as scary as I thought. As a matter of fact, I do not feel a modicum of anxiety about my decision or about opening a new chapter with Mexico as it is the first time in our 3 years together that I do not have an expiration date.

So I sharpened that pencil and now the pencil is just like all the others, scattered across my desks and in old marmalade jars stuffed with spoons and business cards. Everything about it except the pencil's graphite, which is as sharp as the apex of my sea change, and when moved against the paper in my notebook makes a noise, a naturally forced one, like baby fingernails on a wet chalkboard.

11.8.11

Insomnia

We could go out, he said. Do you know that new bar? My friend is playing there tonight.

Sure, she said twisting in the sheets towards his covered, prostrate figure, facing the other wall so that when he spoke his voice sounded muffled.

You are not sleepy, he said with an inflection at the end of his sentence that indicated his surprise.

No, she said aloud and meant it. Let's go.

I am sleepy. I am so tired but I cannot sleep. What is the word? Insomnia. I have been having problems with it. No, he said. We will not go.

You need a distraction, she told him. Something on which to concentrate. She rose quickly and moved the mix of shoes and pants blocking the door, unable to stay shut without a prop, and disappeared down the hallway. He heard her scuffle, fumbling for the unfamiliar light-switch and then in her bag, full of keys that she had recently decided to group by home and work but no longer together, before she returned with a book, half-read and marked with a folded piece of paper that she did not recognize until she opened it from the edges to expose the printed things she had the best intentions of doing but found herself intentionally avoiding.

I just started this story. I read the first part but no matter, she said as she discarded her paper obligations to the side and crossed the room to the light, controlled by a gauge that she carefully increased to the lowest glow possible for her to see.

You will hurt your eyes with that light, he told her.

How do you think they got the way they are today, she smiled.

He would have to excuse, she warned, her poor Russian accent for the characters' names.

If it is anything like your Spanish, he joked, and she laughed though she did not always find it funny.

She settled on the side of the bed farthest from the light and began.

"There lives in Russia a certain honored professor..." she read and found herself closer to the book with each sentence. It was much darker on page than she had imagined. He was right about the eyes but she continued stubbornly fumbling for the sentences based on logic. "My name is linked to the concept of a man who is famous." She changed positions, first to her belly with the book in her face and then to her normal hunch but with a larger inwards incline in hopes the familiar shape would increase her eyesight. “But I am as austere and ugly as my name is celebrated and beautiful." She stopped to cough deeply a cough that had plagued her for days and at her own hands that continued to find lighters to begin the next cigarette that burned her raw throat. As a consequence she read with guttural monotony to keep the fits at bay but it only worked for a paragraph at most before she found herself choking from the inside out. This cannot go on much longer, she thought but she loved reading and even more to people. She persevered. “With regards to my physical health, I must note insomnia, from which I have been suffering as of late."

In disbelief she looked to him but his eyes were shut; she wondered what he was thinking. How could she have forgotten about the character's insomnia, having just read the pages days before? She continued to read to him the protagonist's struggle with insomnia and she thought what if he will now be haunted by this story rather than comforted? Hearing his current state articulated with what struck her as precision and bitterness, will he be able to dissociate how he had previously viewed his condition from the book's character, whose despondence cut into her being, not because the story was spectacular but because she let herself get lost in the situation as if it were her sleeplessly wincing as mosquitoes buzzed in her ear. This was a mistake and this light is impossible, she thought as she rose to increase it a shade more.

What happened? he asked.

This light. Did you hear what the story was saying? she asked him, a trifle excited.

I was sleeping, he told her as he readjusted in the bed with his eyes still closed. She was at first pleased that her idea had worked, but soon she found herself sorry that he had not shared in the coincidence.

She started again. "You are conscious of every moment and every second you are not normal when you fail to sleep at night." Her throat hurt, the voice slowly weakening with each page, but wanting him to rest, gauging sleep by his breaths, rhythmic and delicate, she persevered in monotony but was unable to escape the world and how strange it had been (is it funny?) for longer than she cared to remember and even when she did remember, it all seemed so many lives away and further assisted her feeling both connected and severed from her past and present and future.

"'Lime . . . cream . . . pistachio . . .' but it is not the same. I am as cold as ice and feel ashamed." She looked at him and set the book down next to the mattress before putting out the light and returning to the bed, careful on the old wooden floors that creaked like ones from her childhood.

She lay next to him, trying not to cough, not to breathe, and pulled the white sheet over her side.

1.8.11

Missive

Though like this city, it is falling apart in places. Just this weekend, I was walking through a neighborhood looking for a Korean massage when part of a building, a big concrete slab, fell just behind me, smashing to pieces on the sidewalk where I had passed not 2 seconds before and would have most surely resulted in my untimely death. I stood stunned as my friend laughed uncontrollably and I thought of time and death and luck and you saying once, though you probably don't recall, more people die in this city from flower pots falling on their heads than because of swine flu. I think you to be right.

31.5.11

Liam's policy

"Atlanta lost part of its future last night. We lost a friend," was said about Liam Rattray, who passed away Monday night after being hit by a drunk driver. He dedicated his life to making communities and food systems more sustainable and had just received a $50,000 grant for a renewable-energy project at Truly Living Well, an Atlanta community garden with organic fruits and vegetables.



Hearing that a person like Liam, a person so motivated and intelligent, a person who not only dreamt of change but became the change he wanted to see, was killed by drunk driving is disgustingly unfair.

In the face of this tragedy (a word I use sparingly) and loss of all he would have done for Atlanta, I ask that policy makers take a hard look at this city’s transportation, one in which the car rules and sidewalks are optional and pedestrians account for about one in eight automobile-related fatalities. To take a look at 331 lost lives from our State alone to alcohol impaired driving.

I want them to know that MARTA is the largest transit agency in the US that does not receive any operational funds from the state. In Governor Perdue's Fiscal Year 2011 budget, he asks for 300 million dollars in General Obligation Bonds to fund transportation projects across the state. While the list includes numerous road projects and port improvements, rail enhancements are conspicuously absent.

Then I want them to know that a more extensive public transportation system, one in which MARTA moves beyond the cardinal directions, is widely accessible, and stays open later, and one where bus routes increase rather than disappear, could help.

According to a 2009 study from Cornell, each additional hour of late night public transportation reduces fatal accidents involving intoxicated drivers by 70%.

I ask you, Atlanta, to do something about this. I ask you, reader, to try to help too.

I will be working with Carly Queen to pressure policy makers to offer safer, more sustainable alternatives to drunk driving because it does not seem right to just stand by and say, what a shame. Liam would have done something and I always admired him for that.

Please visit the Facebook page for Liam and Remembering Liam, a site dedicated to his memory and works, and a site that we all hope "will transform into a living and breathing community dedicated to the ideals, priorities, and plans seeded by the late Liam Rattray." I also hope that in Liam's honor a number of campaigns grow, no matter if it is for sustainability or against drunk driving, because it will take everyone's effort to fill just one man's shoes.

25.5.11

Abrazos gratis

The past three months I have been involved in an epic war of good versus evil, right versus wrong, Mary versus Apple. Having just fought and lost the battle of Reforma 222 the previous day, I schlepped back to the site of my defeat for round two, armed with a CS code and belly full of tasty treat to encourage patience with the same Mexican tech support solider that I had but 24 hours prior verbally assaulted to no avail.

The battle continues to wage but I have faith it will one day end in my favor. At least it better.

I exited the three towered mall onto Reforma and into the street crowd of shoppers, suits and cyclists. Back to Insurgentes Metro for me with no detours, no stops, no mercy. But just before I reached the turn at Calle Génova I noticed the Cultural fair tents were open even though it was 7 p.m. on a Monday. Odd. I had biked over on Sunday at 2 p.m., the height of the Mexican lunch hour, to find the tents closed. I was hungry but no pay de queso or barbecue for me, I had thought. Not that the particular food mattered. I just liked the idea of treating Reforma, one of the biggest avenues in D.F., like your neighbor's backyard with the grill fired up spewing a charred smell from the burned black bits of marinated meat that inevitability fall between the grate and a stranger that looks like your great aunt offering you exotically named deserts or pasta salad (though no lettuce is ever involved) swimming in mayonnaise paste and does anyone need anything from the store? cause I have Jim on the phone and actually, could you tell him to bring some coleslaw if he could because we just ran out and the kids are fussing for more slaw dogs.

But the event lost its luster without the sun on my back and my bike at my will and my friends by my side. So back to the metro, I guessed. But I wanted, always want, a mental piece, a permanent photo map, of the avenue: its art and people and vendors hustling about the road that I am sure I do not go to nearly enough. People lingered around tents and crosswalks and as the light dimmed I should have turned back but was met by a 20-something-year-old-artistic-type-guy holding cardboard with sharpie scratchings that read: "Abrazos gratis" or "Free hugs." This is not the first time that I have seen such a sign but for one reason or another my heart swam through ice that melted when a woman from the crosswalk went shamelessly into his embrace.

Watching him, asking for nothing but, instead, offering kindness to strangers, a spot of happiness in all the dirty, disheartening events that may or may not be your day, well, it got me.

I wanted to tell him. I wanted a hug. But I turned away and walked pensively past the perpetual crowd on Calle Génova and towards Insurgentes metro.

I thought about how I had judged an author but a month ago for a similar act. He had told the story, given the background, done all the research but when the time came for him to act, he gave up halfway through. I had scoffed as I set the book down thinking, what is the point of telling this story with that kind of ending?

Good question.